Thursday, January 29, 2009

The Two Pole Stars, Episode Two: Polka Restaurant



If Warszawa is run by your elegant auntie who has a fondness for high culture, then Polka is run by an eccentric uncle who has an obsessive relationship with flea markets. Step across the threshold here and be instantly bombarded with a mind boggling array of kitsch (a polite word for "junk"). So thick is the experience, its hard to believe you are still in Los Angeles. Part of you will wonder if you've been transported to some alternate dimension, populated by a race of super-beings who are fond of sausages and lace-covered table lamps. Nonetheless, Polka, each time I've visited, is packed to the gills with customers.

For a long time, Polka was a prized bastion of the discerning LA Cheap Eater, attracted to their bountiful menu which automatically included a cup of tasty soup, a cabbage salad and a dessert. I'm going to take an undoubtedly controversial stance and assert that Polka can no longer hold this status. A glance at their pricing and the high end of the menu tops out at nearly $20! This is not "cheap," folks. Especially so, considering the side veggies are commonplace frozen items, frankly, a bit overdone, and available at the neighborhood Vons. The soup, though tasty, is pretty simple. I'd like to suggest that Polka no longer holds the value proposition it once did.



As a starter, we chose a plate of pierogies. They arrived covered with sauteed onions and, were for the most part, pretty tasty. They lacked the light elegance of Warszawa's version, but certain took up a fair amount of stomach-share.




There are three categories of dinner--$15.95, $17.95 and $19.95--each price point features a different set of possible selections. As usual, I chose the stuffed cabbage ($17.95). Make no mistake about it, the food here is tasty and filling. My cabbage rolls were no exception. A combination of pork and chicken meat, covered with a tomato based gravy accompanied by mashed potatoes, corn and carrots. The portions were large enough to warrant a doggy bag.



There IS still a bargain to be had in the side item section of the menu, where three huge sausages can be had for a mere $3.95. These were juicy, tender and very tasty. Into the doggy bag they went too.

Were I to choose between the two places, East side or West...given the fact that their pricing is nearly identical, I'd have to choose West. In terms of sophistication, execution and general elegance Warszawa wins hands down.



Polka Restaurant
4112 Verdugo Road
Los Angeles, CA 90065
(323) 255-7887
(323) 255-1000

Monday, January 26, 2009

Scenes from Balboa Park, San Diego




The Two Pole Stars, Episode One: Warszawa Restaurant

Isaac Asimov's Foundation series is a classic sci-fi epic about The Foundations, organizations set up at opposite ends of the galaxy dedicated to preserving the culture of a galactic civilization nearing its end. One foundation is apparent to the eye and the other is hidden from view.

Fast forward to Los Angeles circa 2009. What if the civilization being preserved was Polish? What would you do? Were this the midwest, say a rusty industrial town like Cleveland, finding a Polish restaurant would not be such a chore. Just roll out your barrel to suburban Parma and throw yourself to the bounty of pierogis (Poland's answer to the potsticker) and cabbage rolls that await you. Los Angeles and its rainbow variety of Thai-Latin-Korean-Chinese-Armenian-Persian teeming masses vastly outnumber the contingent of our Polish friends. You might take a page from the Asimov playbook and create two very different restaurants on opposite ends of town. One you've certainly passed a thousand times, the other secreted away in a faceless mini-mall both represent unique expressions of Polish culture. This review, in two parts, focuses on the west-most restaurant.

Warszawa is located on Lincoln in Santa Monica. I'm sure you've driven by and thought "Warszawa? Wonder if that's any good?" Let's face it, Polish food may not be the most exotic number in town, but it does deeply satisfy. Originally located in Berkeley, the restaurant relocated to Santa Monica in 1979 where it has remained a stable bastion of Eastern European fare ever since. Stepping across the threshold of the restaurant takes you to an elegant, fancy space. Maybe you might be visiting the home of your Polish aunty who has more than a touch of aristocratic blood, she's a classy lady, after all. Spaces are oddly out of place in a cardboard city that made mid-century modernism its official visual language. Its an elegant, olde world spot spotted with posters of high culture events-- symphonies, theater and such. Its calming and serene.

The menu has all the classics, Bigos Hunter's Stew, Veal Paprikash, Beef Stroganoff and, of course, Stuffed Cabbage! Few items exceed $20. We elect for potato leek soup and pierogies to start, Polish-style Gnocchi with sauteed mushrooms and cream, and, my favorite, Stuffed Cabbage.

The soup was so flavorful that Trusty Dining Companion declared it one of the best ever. I have to concur. The creamy smooth potato essence was delightful.




The Pierogis came deep fried, which is different from how one generally finds them in the heart of Polish Cleveland (where boiling or broiling is the most common M.O.). However, paradoxically, these deep fried versions were so light and flavorful I only remembered to take a photograph after half of them had been eaten. The two version we ordered--wild mushroom and shredded cabbage and braised beef, carrots and onions provided nice contrasting flavors. The latter had echoes of the best beef pot pie you've ever tasted and the mushroom cabbage combination exuded a distinctly Eastern European flavor.



The Gnocchi, were like the pierogi, unusually light and fluffy. These are not the dense, chewy Italian versions, but something much more ethereal. They balanced the heavier but flavorful mushroom-loaded cream sauce very well. There was enough to take home afterwards too. On the side were a carrot sweet potato puree (Declared: "Super Yummy!") and always good-for-you steamed broccoli. The latter were covered with some sort of buttered breadcrumb "sauce" that added a fatty component to this otherwise healthy vegetable.



The Cabbage Rolls came in a pair, with a side of de rigeur mashed potatoes, all covered with a tomato-based sauce and the broccoli/sweet potato puree. This was most excellent. My fork cut through the cabbage roll with little effort. I think I even moaned while eating them. I ate slow and let the food sink in. Fortunately, we could add these to the leftover bag too.

All-in-all it was a pleasant evening at Warszawa. The fare was much lighter than expected, but no less satisfying. Probably not the best place for a first date (Unless, of course, she was a hot Polish super model suffering form homesickness). This is a spot for a dear old friend, and now that you've settled into unspoken comfort, who only wants to enjoy a quiet, delicious meal with good company.

PS. They say the beer garden out back is a great warm weather gathering spot.

Warszawa Restaurant
1414 Lincoln Blvd
Santa Monica, CA
310 393 8831

Thursday, October 30, 2008

From This Month's Saveur:




German food rarely gets much press. However, there are some goodies that must be experienced. Spaetzle is one of those basics that you can eat a plateful of and find yourself very satisfied with being alive. This recipe makes me drool:







Garlic Dumplings with Emmentaler
(Käsespätzle)

SERVES 4

Spätzle means little sparrows in German.

2 heads of garlic
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄2 cup milk
1⁄4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf
parsley leaves
1⁄4 cup finely chopped basil leaves
6 tbsp. unsalted butter
1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
3 eggs, beaten
2 cups flour
1 cup grated emmentaler
cheese

1. Heat oven to 450°. Halve garlic crosswise with a knife and brush with olive oil; wrap with foil. Roast until soft, 1 hour. Let cool and squeeze roasted garlic cloves from their skins into a bowl; mash with a fork to a paste.

2. Melt 2 tbsp. of the butter and add to paste. Then add milk, parsley, basil, salt, and eggs; stir until smooth.

3. Put flour into a large bowl; form a well in center. Slowly pour in the garlic–milk mixture, stirring with a fork to form a smooth batter.

4. Bring a 5-qt. saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Set a perforated spätzle-making disk over the pot. Working in batches, scrape batter through holes into water. Cook until dumplings rise to surface, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer dumplings to a baking sheet.

5. Heat remaining 4 tbsp. of butter in a 12" ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add dumplings; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Meanwhile, heat broiler; put rack 5" from heating element. Sprinkle dumplings with cheese; broil until melted, about 2 minutes.

Following the Script: Obama, McCain and ‘The West Wing’



As I power through my "The West Wing" binge, I find this fascinating. We have less than a week to find out how prescient they really were!

Following the Script: Obama, McCain and ‘The West Wing’

By BRIAN STELTER
Published: October 29, 2008

When Eli Attie, a writer for “The West Wing,” prepared to plot some episodes about a young Democratic congressman’s unlikely presidential bid, he picked up the phone and called David Axelrod.

Mr. Attie, a former speechwriter for Vice President Al Gore, and Mr. Axelrod, a political consultant, had crossed campaign trails before. “I just called him and said, ‘Tell me about Barack Obama,’ ” Mr. Attie said.

Days after Mr. Obama, then an Illinois state senator, delivered an address to the 2004 Democratic National Convention, the two men held several long conversations about his refusal to be defined by his race and his aspirations to bridge the partisan divide. Mr. Axelrod was then working on Mr. Obama’s campaign for the United States Senate; he is now Mr. Obama’a chief strategist.

Four years later, the writers of “The West Wing” are watching in amazement as the election plays out. The parallels between the final two seasons of the series (it ended its run on NBC in May 2006) and the current political season are unmistakable. Fiction has, once again, foreshadowed reality.

Watching “The West Wing” in retrospect — all seven seasons are available on DVD, and episodes can be seen in syndication — viewers can see allusions to Mr. Obama in almost every facet of Matthew Santos, the Hispanic Democratic candidate played by Jimmy Smits. Santos is a coalition-building Congressional newcomer who feels frustrated by the polarization of Washington. A telegenic and popular fortysomething with two young children, Santos enters the presidential race and eventually beats established candidates in a long primary campaign.

Wearing a flag pin, Santos announces his candidacy by telling supporters, “I am here to tell you that hope is real.” And he adds, “In a life of trial, in a world of challenges, hope is real.” Viewers can almost hear the crowd cheering, “Yes, we can.”

Comparisons between Senator John McCain and the “West Wing” Republican candidate, Arnold Vinick, a white-haired Senate stalwart with an antitax message and a reputation for delivering “straight talk” to the press, also abound. Vinick, played by Alan Alda, is deemed a threat to Democrats because of his ability to woo moderate voters. And he takes great pride in his refusal to pander to voters, telling an aide: “People know where I stand. They may not like it, but they know I’ll stick with it.”

Even the vice-presidential picks are similar: the Democrat picks a Washington veteran as his vice presidential candidate to add foreign policy expertise to the ticket, while the Republican selects a staunchly conservative governor to shore up the base.

Certainly some of the parallels are coincidental. It is unlikely, for example, that the writers knew Mr. Obama had an affection for Bob Dylan when they made Santos a Dylan fan. But it is the unintentional similarities that make the DVDs of the sixth and seventh seasons, which at the time received mixed reviews, so rewarding to watch now. In both “The West Wing” and in real life, for example, the Phillies played in the World Series during the election campaign.

As the primaries unfolded this year, “I saw the similarities right away,” said Lawrence O’Donnell, a producer and writer for the series who has appeared on MSNBC as a political analyst. Mr. O’Donnell had used Mr. McCain as one of the templates for the Vinick character in the episodes he wrote, though he said that “McCain’s resemblance to the Vinick character was much stronger in 2000 than in 2008.”

Echoing the criticism Mr. McCain faced during the primaries, a White House aide in “The West Wing” contends that Vinick is “not conservative enough” for the Republican base. Sometimes the two candidates’ situations are almost identical: when the press starts asking where Vinick attends church, he tells his staff that “I haven’t gone to church for a while.” Asked in July by The New York Times about the frequency of his church attendance, Mr. McCain said, “Not as often as I should.”

Mr. Alda and Mr. McCain are the same age. When a hard-edged strategist played by Janeane Garofalo joins the Santos campaign, she immediately alludes to Vinick’s age. “He’s been in the Senate for like 90 years. He was practically born in a committee room,” she says.

In the same way that Obama surrogates have subtly knocked Mr. McCain’s lack of computer skills, the Garofalo character remarks to the Santos campaign manager, Josh Lyman: “Why are you always talking about high-tech jobs? Because Vinick uses a manual typewriter.”

Conversely, Santos staffers talk about getting video of the candidate with his “adorable young children hugging their hale and vital dad.” The casting of Mr. Smits introduced story lines about the prospect of a minority president. But when an aide suggests a fund-raising drive in a Latino community, Santos snaps: “I don’t want to just be the brown candidate. I want to be the American candidate.” The Obama campaign has made similar assertions.

Still, “The West Wing” — like Mr. Obama — does not ignore racial issues entirely. In the seventh season Santos delivers a speech on race at a critical moment for his campaign, and staffers privately worry that voters will lie about their willingness to vote for a minority candidate.

If the show sometimes seems like a political fantasy — a real debate where politicians are required to answer questions? a candidate rejecting an attack ad? — it also reflects the tenor of the real-life campaign season.

Santos wins the nomination only after a lengthy fight on the convention floor, an inexact parallel to Obama’s extended primary fight with Senator Hillary Rodham Clinton. Just as the Obama campaign pivoted to the economy this fall, Lyman tells Santos staffers that “this new economic message may be our ticket,” and he winds up being right. An economic crisis does not ensue, but back-to-back emergencies on “The West Wing” — a nuclear power plant malfunction and a dispute in Kazakhstan — bring to mind the election-defining qualities of the actual economic crisis.

“Dramatically, they are exactly the same thing: the unforseeable,” Mr. O’Donnell said.

As President Bush did during the bailout talks, Jed Bartlet, the Democratic “West Wing” president played by Martin Sheen, brings both candidates to the White House for a briefing. Facing the prospect of deploying 150,000 American soldiers to Kazakhstan three weeks before the election, Vinick grumbles, “I can say goodbye to my tax cut.” He tells Santos, “Your education plan’s certainly off the table.”

Santos emerges victorious weeks later, but only after a grueling election night. Online, some “West Wing” fans are wondering whether the show will wind up forecasting the real-life result as well. In Britain, where the series remains popular in syndication, a recent headline on a blog carried by the newspaper The Telegraph declared: “Barack Obama will win: It’s all in ‘The West Wing.’

Conversation With Rhea, Age 5



Rhea: "I know you're Batman."

SAM: "Rhea, how do you know I'm Batman?"

Rhea: "Because I can see your soul."

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Visiting Modern San Diego

Though Los Angeles is regarded as the capital city of modern domestic architecture, San Diego has a quieter but no less dynamic history. It too enjoyed the ideal growth conditions for architectural experimentation--sublime climate, years of economic expansion, entrepreneurial clients open to exploring, and talented architects who liked pushing boundaries.

For whatever reason, uncovering information about Modern San Diego is a bit of a chore. We had to rely on the 1977 edition of Gebhard and Winter's still amazingly relevant A Guide to Architecture in Los Angeles & Southern California. Few comprehensive resources exist (except ModernSanDiego.com!) and there's a whole territory out there waiting to be cataloged and written about. Grad students, start your engines!

To make any architectural expedition worth your while, you need a great companion. One who is curious, adventurous, aesthetically astute and willingly disregards the social and legal norms of trespassing. Check! (JT enters stage left. Takes bow.)

Looking over the map, we set our sights on three choice sites. (1) Kendrick Bangs Kellogg's Babcock House, (2) Rudolph Schindler's Pueblo Ribera Court, (3) Killingsworth, Brady and Smith's Case Study House Triad. With perhaps the exception of Schindler, both are unsung masters of the craft.






Kellogg, still practicing today, offers an intense flavor of organicism that exceeds even Frank Lloyd Wright. The Babcock House (available for vacation rental!) is an early example of his work...a dramatic origami of a building that belongs more on a mountain promontory than the seashore, but is still thrilling nonetheless. A friendly Pacific Beach denizen let us know that Kellogg is still adding on the structure and is a darn nice guy. Good to know. Kellogg's original home and studio are just down the street (and also available for rental!).





The Pueblo Ribera Court are Schindler's only SD area structures, and they are gems! Undergoing renovations, these former vacation cottages are slowly coming back to life. Schindler pioneered cooperative housing designs on the west coast and was expert at creating privacy within a single multi-unit project. Made largely of concrete, redwood and glass, the buildings are simple and natural. They are the Wrightish forms characteristic of Schindler's early period arranged into complex spaces. We couldn't scale the walls to actually enter into one of the units, but the walkways between them gave enough flavor to sense the greatness of these buildings. Behind them sits a new construction by Lou Dominy that pays strong homage to the originals.

Finally, the Killingsworth Case Study Triad (nothing to do with the Chinese Mafia, folks...) sit high on the hills of La Jolla, overlooking the ocean. They are as elegant as they are simple. The Case Study Houses were a great postwar experiment to create a simple, modern housing for returning veterans employing the latest in materials and building methods. Financially, these were largely a bust, but they spurned some of the greatest architectural experimentation of the 20th century. Architect's careers were made because of their involvement in the program. Killingsworth, a lesser known figure of the mid-century practitioners, was catapulted to renown because of his Case Study contributions. When you see these houses, you'll know why.





The homes themselves are simple, light boxes, sometimes arranged around small courtyards. The most dramatic of the projects sits below street level and incorporates one of Killingsworth's trademark features--an entryway that traverses a shallow pool of dark water. Though its only an inch or two deep, the psychological journey of crossing it evokes a perilous moat. By the time you reach the front door, you feel you've arrived into a zone of domestic safety. The effect is stunning.

(Sigh) The sun started to set and our energy flagged by the time we finished with these. However, we only scratched the surface of what's available in our friendly, laid-back neighbor to the south. Surely, more adventures await!

Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Root Beer From the Gods




Mmmmm. Root Beer! Early versions of root beer were made by settlers and later popularized by Charles Hires in the late 19th century. Before the rise of The Cola, it was the most popular soft drink in America. Root beer is the tasty result of fermented roots, barks and herbs and to the palates of my Asian friends--"carbonated gargle medicine." (sigh) Intercultural exchange still has a ways to go.

The state of soda has suffered a great deal in recent years: plastic bottles and aluminum cans that impart an unpleasant taste, corn syrup and artificial sweeteners instead of cane sugar which also distorts flavor, cheap flavorings substituting for the nuance of natural ingredients are three notable indignities. All this leads to the mass production of junk food that not only is not good for you but tastes terrible. Sorry, but I hold my empty calories to a higher standard.

However, micro-brewed craft sodas are making a comeback. One of the shining spots in the fizzing firmament is Sparky's Root Beer. Named after their pet cat (who presumably plays no role in the production process) it is crafted by the Knox Family of Pacific Grove, CA. Sparky's started out as a hobby, then an item dispensed at farmer's markets, and finally sold in individual bottles. The 22-ounce version is a whopping howitzer of a root beer that works best when shared with a good friend.

Sparky's nuanced flavor comes from pure cane sugar and honey. Its herby and rooty up front and finishes sweet, but unlike some root beers, this one has a bite. Beware! Carnivorous soda ahead. (Maybe this is where the cat comes in...?) I have to say, the stuff is unique and addictive.

How to get your Sparky's? I got my case from the crazy, over-sugared, but lovable folks at Real Soda in Torrance. They say Sparky's is "The Best Root Beer Ever" They should know. (See RealSoda.com...click on the button "Czech out our Selection" to see the product list. It is a sight to behold.) Another sight to behold was my case of 24 red and white Sparky's Bottles. I gave away more than half the box so that other's could enjoy some Sparky's and my waistline wouldn't suffer too much.

If you like root beer, you might LOVE Sparky's. Thank you, Knox Family!

Sunday, October 05, 2008

The One Store That Has Everything






How do I begin to write about this place? In the old days, men had clubs where they could repair to escape the troubles of the world, brandy sifter in hand, pipe in mouth and the morning's paper under arm. For the most part, these stalwart bastions of masculine bonhomie have fallen to changing times. For this reason, we men need a place like Sean.

Set in Santa Monica's fashionable Montana district, Sean is the men's shop that trumps all men's shops. It is an unwavering sartorial polestar, a bastion of tailored stability in unstable seas. It carries one label exclusively, Emile LaFaurie, and offers an affordably chic but steady stream of classic-yet-au courant pieces that reinforce the Buddha's basic truth: Desire is the root of all suffering. Whenever I think that I couldn't possibly need more clothing, LaFaurie sends another season's wares from Paris, laying waste to my fragile inner calm.

The design's basic thrust is an understated, slow-burning elegance with a generous dollop of European sophistication. With these duds, people will think you're smarter and more worldly than you really are. In recent years, the pieces have become sleeker and more taut. Barack Obama would love to find a Sean gift certificate in his Christmas stocking. You will find everything here from business wear to causal-man-about-town gear. No matter what mode you're in, you'll look great.

The worldview is clearly defined; the shop's curating is concise and on-point. Amazingly, even across seasons it all coordinates fantastically. The quality of the materials is high--fine Italian fabrics and woolens, assembled in Portugal. The detailing of the jacket linings make tough men weep. The urbane painter's coats gives any gent a rakish, artistic air of genius. The shirts....the shirts last forever.

After Sean, other stores will seem like shallow, overblown, fashion school dropouts trying to stiff you with their fleeting mass market dross for an easy buck. Banana What? Surely, you're joking.


Los Angeles:

1107 Montana Avenue
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310.260.5616
Mon - Sat 10 - 6
Sun 12 - 6

San Francisco:

575 Hayes Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
415.431.5551
Mon - Fri 11 - 7
Sat 10 - 7
Sun 12 - 6

1749 Union Street
San Francisco, CA 94123
415.474.7363
Mon - Fri 11 - 7
Sat 10 - 7
Sun 12 - 6

New York:

199 Prince Street
New York, NY 10012
212.598.5980
Mon - Sat 11 - 8
Sun 12 - 7

Saturday, September 27, 2008

From This Month's Saveur:



"'When you wake up in the morning, Pooh,' said Piglet at last, 'what's the first thing you say to yourself?'

"What's for breakfast?' said Pooh, 'What do you say, Piglet?'

"I say, I wonder what's going to happen exciting today?' said Piglet.

"Pooh nodded thoughtfully, 'It's the same thing,' he said."