Not Noodle Nirvana

(Originally Posted 5/6/05)

Food Review: Takeshi's Ramen, Glendale

I think of Takeshi's Ramen like an attractive person you spy across the room, whose beauty proves to be a mirage upon closer inspection. The shop's sign, with its tempting "tonkotsu" tickling my epicurean imagination, was not the culinary paradise I thought it was going to be.

The design of the shop is serene enough--greens, browns and bricks--with a blending of traditional and modern aspects.

The menu features a standard set of ramen possibilities--salt, miso, and soy sauce--along with mabo (ground pork and tofu in a miso broth), kimchee, curry, vegetable, tonkatsu (breaded pork), tonkotsu (creamy pork broth), "tempura" ramen (which in Japanese is really "Ebi Fry" and not tempura), and seafood. Non-ramen possibilities include yaki-soba (pan fried noodles), curry (which looked good, but only served at dinner time), broiled fish, bbq short rib, etc.

The appetizer of fried oysters was not bad--crisp and juicy. The "Takeshi Croquettes" were obviously mass-produced and nothing special. There were a few "off-moments" for the Japanese food purist--the shredded raw cabbage accompaniments was just a bit too thick, and on the table sat shichimi (seven pepper mix) rather than the more ramen-appropriate ra-yu (red pepper oil).

The ramen portions,themselves, come in a large urn-like bowl, almost impossible for one person to eat alone. The pork slices are tender, but not heavenly a la Daikokuya. The broth was merely competent and not revelrous. Some of the vegetables, though plentiful, were canned.

The service was maternal and doting.

It was a pleasant experience, not mind-blowing.

The standard set by places like Daikokuya, with its few excellent items, rather than many mediocre things, is what inspires passion, loyalty and ultimately, I'm afraid, longevity.


Takeshi's Ramen
126 North Brand Blvd
Glendale, CA 91023
818 242 0505

Update: I walked by the other day (August 1, 2008) and now Takeshi's is a Korean tofu place. RIP Takeshi's!